Between the gushing waterfalls emptying from Oregon’s banks and the impressive peaks of Washington’s Cascade Range harboring Mount Saint Helens, lies a magnificent river whose history is littered with shipwrecks and migrating salmon and steelhead. Three days could never do this region justice, but it offers a glimpse into the potential of all that is available to anyone looking for a little raw, wild adventure.

Less than an hour outside of Portland, on the Oregon side of the river, it’s time to dive into one of the biggest draws of the area, the waterfalls. The most visited of them all, and arguably the most impressive, is Multnomah Falls. Although reservations are required from May to September, visiting in the off season leaves the spectacle to a much more enjoyable (and less touristy) experience. In the winter (this was late February), the hike to the top can be slippery and steep, but the view from the footbridge and beyond is worth the climb.

After a few more falls, it was time to make our first river crossing. We had an appointment to keep at the Society Hotel in Bingen, Washington. This schoolhouse turned cabin outpost is also home to a spa featuring pools brimming with local hot spring water. The warmth and comfort of the hot soak, coupled with laying in the lounge chairs in the near freezing outdoor air, erased the wear and tear of all the day’s hikes. Then, it was on to our final destination, a pristine bed and breakfast nestled near Husum on the White Salmon. The drive up the 141 into higher elevations welcomed us with a little snowfall, dusting the orchards and rooftops along the windy road to the Ruby June Inn.

White Salmon is a one horse town, but the main drag is anything but dusty old saloons. It bustles with wine bars and restaurants, as well as well curated mercantiles. Everyone in the community seems to be collaborating to offer visitors the best of the local environment, whether it’s the fresh baked goods or finely crafted jewelry. Since it was Valentine’s Day, and acting on advice from our innkeepers, our first stop was Soca Wine Shop and Bar for a glass from the nearby vineyards. After that, we ducked into Henni’s Kitchen & Bar for dinner, and even though it wasn’t Mangia Monday (when all dishes are Italian fare from Pizza Leona’s), we walked away filled with focaccia and vibrant flavors from seasonal dishes like green tahini grilled cauliflower and black mussels swimming in a saffron and coconut broth. Delicious!

Before saying goodbye to White Salmon, we were told that we needed to make a small detour to “the post office”. Established on July 4th, 1904, Trout Lake Hall now houses a cozy cafe, Post Office Coffee, offering up nostalgic scenery and amazing breakfast options including decadent homemade pastries and gourmet coffees.

We left Washington already planning a trip back in the summer for one of Ruby June Inn’s “Chefs Collective” dinners. But before we could cross the bridge into Oregon, at the intersection of the Columbia and Klickitat rivers, the Confluence Cafe beckoned us in for hot dogs topped with all the fixings. From the balcony out back, we watched bald eagles hunt for fish and dogs run free on the peninsula below. We didn’t have time for a visit to the wine bar next door, but the raucous laughter spilling from the other side of the wall makes me think we missed out on something special.

Back on the other side of the river, it was time to find out more about the local fauna with a pit stop to the Bonneville Lock and Dam. This multi level facility offers a history of the local people, informative displays about power generation and distribution, and a window into the river for a first hand look at the salmon and steelhead migration. After a thorough walking tour of the dam, we ventured to Cascade Locks to checkout the Brigham Fish Market for some FRESH smoked salmon, piping hot fish and chips, and coleslaw that was just the right amount of sweet.

We settled into Hood River for our final night in the Gorge. We didn’t make it up to ski or anywhere even close to the mountain for that matter, but we managed to have fun nonetheless. The Historic Hood River Hotel has stood the test of time and the fun aesthetic of the lobby and mile high fireplace had us warm and relaxed in no time. When checking into a hotel for a night, I always pose this question to the staff: If you only had one night to eat in your town, where would you go? This time, the answer was The Mesquitery Steakhouse just up the hill on the Heights. The prime rib was to die for and the ribs were spot on, roasted slowly over an open wood fired grill. It was the perfect end to a food-fueled whirlwind trip through the Columbia River Gorge.