The Real Napa Valley: A Culinary Adventure

Rombauer Vineyards

My experiences in Napa go way back to my childhood, with hours spent entertaining my younger sister while my parents sipped wine under the shade of tall oaks. That was the late 70’s, and those outings left me with the impression that the wine country was a boring place, with nothing to see or do. Flash forward twenty years, and an opportunity to visit my husband’s friend, who was a chef at Cuvaison, changed my opinion of the place.

The day started with a tour of the bottle library and two creamy chardonnays sipped slowly in the tasting room and finished outside lying in the cool grass. Lunch was picniced in a terraced garden, and later that afternoon, a short ride down the Silverado Trail had us climbing into a glider plane for a quiet, engineless decent along the hillsides dotted with grapevines. It was truly an unforgettable experience; one I find myself trying to recreate over and over again with every trip.

Working up from the bottom of the valley, start your day out in Yountville. Its quaint locale and meticulous landscaping are the backdrop to fine dining and a story that begins way back in 1836 when George C. Yount was granted land from the Mexican government. Nowadays, its place on the map is noted more for Thomas Keller’s Michelin 3-Starred restaurant, The French Laundry, and for Grgich Hill’s Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, the second oldest in the valley, planted in 1959. Grab a well made latte and decadent pastry amid locals and visitors alike at Bouchon Bakery. If you’re early enough, you might see the filling of hot air balloons across the street before they float off for the day.

Now for the hard part, choosing where you will spend the rest of the afternoon. Be sure you have a non drinking driver or hire yourself a ride before heading out on the two laned highway. If you like champagne or sparkling wines, don’t miss Schramsberg Vineyards. Their unique experience includes navigating through the caves, over a century old, and an educational tour that shares the method for producing sparkling wine.

Looking for a place to pick up a great picnic? Skip Dean and Delucca and opt to fill up your basket at Sunshine Food Market in St. Helena. This small grocery store packs a big punch with a great selection of gourmet fixings including cheese, marinated vegetables, local jams, honeys and wines. Head north, past Calistoga, to Ehler Vineyards, a small production winery with a great vibe and large outdoor seating area, featuring a shaded Bocce court. Linger in the olive grove and enjoy the afternoon in this hidden spot. On your way back down the valley, stop in St. Helena at the basement bar of Goose and Gander for a well curated cheeseboard and hand crafted cocktail.

There are too many wineries to mention, and where you visit should depend on the kind of wines you enjoy. For crisp whites head to Grgich or Rombauer (also an amazing picnic locale with amazing views of the valley). Love a heavy red, then visit Castello De Amorosa, a winery housed in a castle with enough livestock to get kids thinking they’re at a petting zoo. The holy grail is a visit to Newton, whose winery was damaged in the Glass Fire. As they rebuild, they are holding intimate tastings in St. Helena at Brasswood Village. Book your reservation to sample their unfiltered chardonnay and other well vinted selections well in advance .

Eating is a whole different conundrum. This place is a foodies nightmare, with too many great spots to fit into a tight schedule. Many of the wineries I mentioned above have options for picnics or meals, but if you’re looking for that four star service and impeccable ambiance Napa Valley is known for, I’ll give you a few of my favorites. Locals were crushed with the closing of Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, but Chef Cindy Pawlcyn still has a great spot in the valley with Mustards Grill. In the mood for rustic italian? Pizzeria Tra Vigne delivers with wood fired asparagus, made to order pizzas, and a robust wine and cocktail list that does the valley proud. On the other side of the road, you’ll find your burger fix at Gott’s Roadside if a pit stop for a cold shake, lobster roll (summer special) or alfresco lunch are in order. If you’re a planner, and you happen to be reading this six months or more before your visit, The French Laundry is a once in a lifetime flavor extravaganza. We were lucky enough to indulge in a multi course dinner here on our honeymoon over 20 years ago. If you can’t get a reservation, or bring yourself to pay over $350 per person for the “Chef’s Tasting”, at least take a stroll through the gardens across the street to witness first hand what it takes to make a farm to table meal a reality.

As the long summer day of eating and drinking comes to a slow close, duck into one of the many well appointed hotels in the valley. The fine art of hospitality is alive and well, whether you choose to stay in a room above a vineyard, or the decadent Auberge du Soleil, every detail is well thought through and your every whim will be catered to.

Where to stay…

In the south end of the valley, in St. Helena, the newly remodeled Vintage House is the complete package, with afternoon snacks upon arrival and a never ending breakfast buffet. Boasting an outdoor pool and jacuzzi, as well as a full service spa within walking distance for use by guests. Beds are heavenly and the extra bottle of wine in the room doesn’t hurt either.

A little farther north, is Hotel Indigo, set back off of the highway and removed from the hustle and bustle of town. Large rooms with lots of attention to detail. The only downside is there is not an onsite restaurant or food option. Their outdoor pool and lawn area backs up to beautiful vineyards.

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